Discover Phokaia in Turkey: A Local's Guide to This Ancient Turkish Treasure

Phokaia stands as one of the most fascinating ancient treasures you'll encounter in Turkey, originally established by settlers from Phocis in Greece around the 9th century BC. This remarkable coastal city quickly developed into a crucial port and became famous for its master sailors who employed 50-oared vessels to navigate far across the Mediterranean. As one of the twelve cities in the prestigious Ionian League, Phokaia played a pivotal role in regional politics and culture throughout antiquity.

When you explore Phokaia in Turkey today, you'll discover a charming town known locally as Foça, situated on the beautiful Aegean coastline just 70 kilometers north of Izmir. The population normally hovers around 30,000 residents; however, this number more than doubles to 70,000 during summer months as visitors flock to experience its historical wonders and natural beauty. Additionally, the archaeological richness of the area is evident through numerous well-preserved structures, including an ancient theater and distinctive rock-cut tombs that offer fascinating insights into past civilizations.

Throughout this guide, you'll learn about Phokaia's impressive maritime legacy that established colonies as far as France (Marseilles) and Spain, discover the architectural remnants of the 6th century BC Temple of Athena, and uncover the secrets of this once-powerful city that eventually fell to Persian forces in 546 BC. Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply seeking an authentic Turkish coastal experience, Phokaia offers a perfect blend of ancient wonder and modern charm waiting to be explored.

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A Walk Through Time: The History of Phokaia

The origins of Phokaia trace back to a fascinating cultural transition that would shape its identity for centuries. Let's explore the rich historical tapestry of this ancient city that left an indelible mark on Mediterranean civilization.

From Aeolian to Ionian settlers

The earliest presence in Phokaia belonged to Aeolian settlers, with pottery evidence confirming their occupation until at least the 9th century BCE. Initially, the area was more closely associated with the Aeolian region than with Ionia. The ancient Greek geographer Pausanias recounts that Phocaeans arrived under Athenian leadership, settling on land granted to them by the Aeolian Cymaeans.

A significant cultural shift occurred when Ionian colonists began arriving around the end of the 9th century BCE. Though some sources suggest these settlers came from Phocis in Greece, others indicate they originated from nearby Ionian cities like Teos, Erythrae, or Clazomenae. After accepting the royal lineage of Codrus, the Phocaeans were formally admitted into the prestigious Ionian League, cementing their Ionian identity.

Phokaia's maritime legacy and colonies

Despite lacking fertile agricultural land, Phokaia's residents turned to the sea and became extraordinary sailors. Their strategic location between two excellent natural harbors, complemented by several small islands, including Bakchion with its temples and palaces, allowed Phokaia to develop a thriving maritime economy.

According to Herodotus, Phocaeans were the first Greeks to undertake long sea voyages, pioneering routes to the Adriatic, Tyrrhenia, and Spain. Their exceptional seafaring skills so impressed Arganthonios, king of Tartessus in Spain, that he offered them settlement in his kingdom. When they declined, he generously funded the construction of a defensive wall around their city.

Phokaia's colonial reach was truly remarkable. To the north, they helped establish Amisos (modern Samsun) on the Black Sea and Lampsacus at the northern entrance to the Hellespont. Nevertheless, their most significant colonies were western Mediterranean outposts, including:

• Massalia (modern Marseille, France) was founded in 600 BCE
• Emporion (modern Empúries, Spain) was established in 575 BCE
• Alalia in Corsica
• Elea (modern Velia, Italy) was founded around 540-538 BCE

Persian invasion and later empires

Phokaia maintained its independence until approximately 560-545 BCE, when it fell under the control of Lydian king Croesus. Subsequently, the Persian conquest under Cyrus the Great in 546 BCE marked a pivotal turning point. Rather than submit to Persian rule, many Phocaeans chose to abandon their beloved city—some fleeing to Chios, others to their Mediterranean colonies, with many eventually founding Elea in Italy.

In 500 BCE, Phokaia joined the Ionian Revolt against Persian domination. As a testament to their naval expertise, a Phocaean named Dionysius was selected to command the entire Ionian fleet at the decisive Battle of Lade in 494 BCE. Nonetheless, Phokaia's diminished status was evident as they contributed merely three ships to the combined fleet of 353 vessels. Following the Ionians' defeat, Persian control was restored.

After Xerxes I's defeat by the Greeks in 480 BCE and Athens' subsequent rise to power, Phokaia joined the Delian League, paying a tribute of two talents to Athens. Throughout the following centuries, the city changed hands multiple times, rebelling with Spartan help during the Peloponnesian War in 412 BCE, returning to nominal Persian control in 387 BCE, then falling under Seleucid and eventually Attalid rule during the Hellenistic period.

Top Historical Sites You Shouldn't Miss

When wandering through the streets of modern Foça, you'll find yourself surrounded by remarkable archeological treasures that tell the story of Phokaia's glorious past. From sacred temples to defensive fortifications, these ancient structures offer a glimpse into the city's rich cultural heritage.

Temple of Athena

Perched atop a hill overlooking the sea, the Temple of Athena once stood as Phokaia's most important religious sanctuary. Built in the 6th century BCE during the city's golden age, this impressive structure featured Ionic columns and housed a cult statue of the goddess. Today, although only the foundation remains, you can still appreciate its strategic position and understand why ancient Phocaeans chose this spot to honor their patron deity.

The temple's significance extends beyond religious purposes—it also served as a landmark for sailors returning from long voyages. As you stand among these ancient stones, imagine Phocaean ships spotting this gleaming marble structure from miles away, signaling their return home.

Ancient theater

Nestled into a natural slope near the center of old Phokaia, the ancient theater once hosted dramatic performances and civic gatherings. Unlike many Greek theaters that were later modified by the Romans, this structure maintains much of its original Hellenic design.

What makes this site particularly special is its intimate scale—rather than an enormous venue, Phokaia's theater was built to serve its community directly. The excellent acoustics still demonstrate the architectural ingenuity of ancient builders. Furthermore, recent archeological work has uncovered fascinating details about the theater's construction phases, revealing how it evolved alongside the city itself.

Genoese Castle and Five Gates

Fast forward to medieval times, and you'll discover another layer of Phokaia's history in the impressive Genoese Castle. Constructed in the 14th century by Genoese merchants who controlled trade in the region, this fortress stands as a testament to the city's continued strategic importance long after its ancient heyday.

The castle incorporates five distinctive gates, each with unique architectural elements that blend Byzantine and Western European styles. Of particular interest is the main entrance, featuring the coat of arms of the Gattilusio family, who ruled the area under Genoese authority. The stone walls, though weathered by centuries of sea winds, remain remarkably intact and offer spectacular views across the harbor.

Şeytan Hamamı and Tas Ev tombs

Among the most mysterious sites in Phokaia are the rock-cut tombs known locally as Şeytan Hamamı (Devil's Bath) and the Tas Ev (Stone House) tombs. Carved directly into the rocky hillsides surrounding the city, these ancient burial chambers date back to the 6th century BCE.

The Şeytan Hamamı earned its unusual name from local folklore that attributed supernatural qualities to its perfectly carved interior chambers. Meanwhile, the Tas Ev tombs feature more elaborate façades that mimic the architecture of ancient houses, creating eternal "homes" for the deceased.

What's truly remarkable about these tombs is their preservation; the detailed carvings have withstood centuries of weathering and human activity. As you explore these quiet monuments, you'll gain insight into both the artistic accomplishments and funerary practices of ancient Phocaeans. Their presence outside the city walls also reveals important information about how the ancient inhabitants conceptualized the boundary between the world of the living and that of the dead.

Each of these sites offers a unique window into Phokaia's multilayered history, from its glory days as a powerful Ionian city to its later chapters under various empires. Together, they create an open-air museum where you can walk through time.

Nature and Culture in Modern Foca

Beyond the archeological wonders, modern Foça (ancient Phokaia) captivates visitors with its pristine natural beauty and vibrant local culture. This coastal gem balances preserving its rich heritage while embracing sustainable contemporary living.

Blue Flag beaches and coves

Foça boasts an impressive collection of Blue Flag-certified beaches, a testament to the town's commitment to environmental excellence. Izmir Metropolitan Municipality has established Turkey's first Blue Flag Coordination Unit, resulting in 40 of 41 public beaches earning this prestigious international recognition.

The coastline offers diverse beach experiences for every preference. Yeni Foça Beach charms families with its calm waters and relaxed atmosphere. For those seeking tranquility, Mersinaki Beach provides a secluded setting surrounded by lush greenery. Meanwhile, Kosova Beach, renowned for its spectacular sunset views and vibrant beach bars, attracts both locals and tourists alike.

Notably, many parts of the district remain under strict environmental protection due to the remarkable flora, fauna, and picturesque coves between Foça and Yenifoça. The area serves as one of only three marine protected areas in Turkey dedicated to preserving the critically endangered Mediterranean monk seal.

Local markets and crafts

The heart of Foça's cultural experience lies in its bustling local markets, where you can discover authentic Turkish crafts and fresh regional products. As you wander through these vibrant marketplaces, you'll encounter everything from handcrafted souvenirs to traditional textiles that showcase local artisanship.

The town's fish market stands as a must-visit destination where you can find the freshest seafood caught daily by local fishermen. This authentic experience connects you directly with Phokaia's enduring maritime tradition that dates back thousands of years.

Cittaslow lifestyle and community vibe

Presently, Foça proudly holds the distinction of being Turkey's 21st-century Cittaslow town, joining an international network of communities dedicated to improving quality of life by slowing down the pace. This designation perfectly captures the essence of daily life in Phokaia.

As evening falls, the town transforms with brightly illuminated streets filled with hundreds of cafés, bistros, and traditional meyhanes (Turkish taverns). Here you can savor delicious appetizers made from endemic herbs like blessed thistle and common mallow, alongside various seafood platters. These culinary experiences are typically complemented by local rakı or Aegean wines, creating an atmosphere where conversations flow freely among friends.

The community's commitment to preserving traditional stone houses enhances Foça's distinctive character. Currently, a marina construction project with 300-boat capacity promises to open Phokaia to more active international tourism while maintaining its authentic charm.

Hidden Gems Only Locals Know

Venture beyond the popular attractions of Phokaia to discover secluded treasures known primarily to residents. These hidden gems offer a glimpse into the authentic character of this ancient Turkish city.

The windmills of Degirmen Hill

As you approach Phokaia, your eyes will be drawn to the historic windmills crowning Degirmen Hill. Constructed primarily during the 19th century, these structures remained operational until the 1960s. The powerful northern winds that swept across Phokaia ensured these mills functioned efficiently throughout their working lives.

Currently, the windmills stand in deteriorated condition, yet they remain an iconic feature of the landscape. Fortunately, the local government has developed plans to restore these historic structures for tourism purposes shortly. Once renovated, they'll likely offer panoramic views similar to other Mediterranean windmills, where visitors can observe the entire village and harbor from an elevated position.

Incir and Orak Islands

Just off Phokaia's coast lie several small islands: Orak, Incir, Kartdere, Fener, Hayirsiz, and Metalik. Among these, Orak and Incir hold special significance as they're believed to be the legendary "Sirens' Rocks" mentioned in Homer's Odyssey. According to mythology, sailors lost their way after hearing the enchanting voices of Sirens—winged female creatures—causing ships to crash against these rocks.

Orak, the largest island, features both a lengthy beach and imposing cliffs, sitting approximately 400 meters from the mainland with a north-to-south dimension of 2 kilometers. Archaeological surveys indicate the island was inhabited from classical times through the Late Roman Empire era, with three stone pits discovered, one possibly serving as a cult center for the goddess Cybele.

Meanwhile, Incir Island primarily functions as a recreational area, where locals enjoy picnicking and swimming.

Old Ottoman cemetery and mosques

Nearby stands Hafiz Suleyman Mescid, a small mosque constructed in 1548 by Haci Mustafa, who served as head of the Foca castle guard. Built using local stone, the mosque underwent several restorations between the 18th and 19th centuries. After closing to prayers in 1917, it reopened in 1992.

Adjacent to this historic place of worship lies an old Ottoman cemetery used for burials from the 16th through the 19th centuries. The tombstones feature exquisite floral decorations including roses, cypress trees, pomegranates, grapes, and dates. Throughout the cemetery, these artistic elements provide insight into Ottoman artistic traditions and funerary practices. Today, a newer cemetery elsewhere in town has replaced this historic burial ground.

Essential Travel Tips for Visiting Phokaia in Turkey

Planning a trip to ancient Phokaia requires some practical preparation to ensure you make the most of this historic coastal gem. Here's what you need to know before setting off on your journey.

Getting there by car, bus, or ferry

Phokaia lies approximately 70 kilometers from Izmir, making it easily accessible for day trips or longer stays. If you're driving, you'll enjoy a scenic coastal route that showcases the region's natural beauty. Alternatively, regular bus services operate from Izmir to Foça, offering an economical transportation option.

For those staying in nearby areas, local bus line 664 runs hourly between various points in Foça. Moreover, if you prefer traveling by water, ferry services connect Foça with nearby islands, providing a refreshing travel experience with beautiful marine views.

Where to stay: hotels and guesthouses

Foça offers accommodations to suit various preferences and budgets. The Hanedan Beach Hotel stands out with its spectacular sea views, perfect for travelers seeking waterfront ambiance. Conversely, if you prefer staying closer to the action, consider the cozy Foca Kumsal Hotel, conveniently situated near the town center.

What to pack and wear

Comfortable footwear is essential for exploring ancient ruins and walking around town. Additionally, bring beach towels or be prepared to pay rental fees of approximately £15 per towel for a week.

Pack these essentials:

• Water bottles for staying hydrated, especially during summer
• Shower gel and shampoo, as these aren't always provided in accommodations
• Wet shoes or trainers for sea swimming due to sea urchins in the area

Respecting the ruins and local customs

First and foremost, remember the archeological significance of Phokaia's ruins. Accordingly, avoid climbing or touching fragile structures to help preserve these irreplaceable treasures for future generations. Besides historical awareness, understanding local customs enhances your experience and shows respect for the community that welcomes you.

Foça's market day offers an authentic glimpse into local life, where you can purchase everything from fresh produce to souvenirs. Many travelers consider this bustling marketplace a highlight of their visit, with surprisingly affordable prices compared to resort shops.

Phokaia stands as a remarkable testament to Turkey's rich historical tapestry, offering far more than just ancient ruins. Throughout your journey, you'll discover a perfect blend of archeological wonders, natural beauty, and authentic cultural experiences that few Mediterranean destinations can match.

The city's transformation from a Greek colony to a maritime powerhouse undoubtedly shaped Mediterranean history, leaving behind architectural treasures like the Temple of Athena and mysterious rock-cut tombs that continue to fascinate visitors today. Ancient sailors once navigated vast distances from Phokaia's harbors, establishing colonies as far away as modern-day France and Spain.

Modern Foça, meanwhile, maintains this connection to the sea through its pristine Blue Flag beaches and protected coves. Additionally, the town's commitment to the Cittaslow movement ensures you'll experience an authentic pace of life rather than rushed tourism. Local markets buzz with activity, giving you direct access to regional crafts and fresh seafood caught by fishermen who continue a maritime tradition spanning millennia.

Venturing beyond popular attractions rewards curious travelers with hidden treasures like the windswept Degirmen Hill with its historic windmills or the mythical islands where sirens supposedly lured ancient sailors. These lesser-known spots often become the most cherished memories of your visit.

Whether you spend your days exploring archeological wonders, swimming in crystal-clear waters, or savoring fresh seafood at waterfront tavernas, Phokaia offers a uniquely authentic Turkish coastal experience. This ancient city, therefore, deserves consideration for any traveler seeking to connect with both history and living culture on Turkey's breathtaking Aegean coast.

FAQs

Q1. What is the historical significance of Phokaia? 

Phokaia, now known as Foça, was an ancient Greek city founded in the 9th century BC. It became a major maritime power, establishing colonies across the Mediterranean and pioneering long sea voyages. The city was part of the prestigious Ionian League and played a crucial role in regional politics and culture throughout antiquity.

Q2. What are some must-visit historical sites in Phokaia? 

Key historical sites in Phokaia include the remains of the 6th century BC Temple of Athena, the ancient theater, the medieval Genoese Castle with its Five Gates, and the intriguing rock-cut tombs known as Şeytan Hamamı and Tas Ev. These sites offer fascinating insights into the city's rich past.

Q3. How can I experience the local culture in modern Foça? 

To experience local culture, visit the bustling markets for authentic Turkish crafts and fresh seafood, enjoy the Blue Flag beaches, and immerse yourself in the Cittaslow lifestyle. In the evenings, explore the illuminated streets filled with cafés, bistros, and traditional meyhanes where you can savor local cuisine and engage in lively conversations.

Q4. Are there any hidden gems in Phokaia that tourists might miss? 

Some lesser-known attractions include the historic windmills on Degirmen Hill, the nearby Incir and Orak Islands (believed to be the legendary "Sirens' Rocks"), and the old Ottoman cemetery with its beautifully decorated tombstones. These spots offer unique insights into the area's history and local life.

Q5. What should I keep in mind when visiting Phokaia?

 When visiting, remember to wear comfortable footwear for exploring ruins, bring beach essentials if planning to swim, and respect the archeological sites by not climbing or touching fragile structures. Also, consider visiting on market day for an authentic local experience and be prepared for the relaxed pace of life in this Cittaslow town.