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Southern Sinai Ecology

A brief overview of this region is more difficult, as southern Sinai encompasses numerous diverse habitats through its geological variety and the dramatic differences in altitude ranging from sea level up to 2,600 meters. Preferred locations for plants are the sandy gravel lowland plains and the mountain wadis, which are often surprisingly well watered. In the Granite Mountains at least sparse vegetation grows in clefts and gaps almost all the way up to the peaks. The Sandstone Mountains, in contrast, are normally barren, as here the water drains off and seeps away quickly.

Numerous strong-smelling herbs and medicinal plants are characteristic of wadis in the mountain zone, giving one the feeling of wandering through an herbalist's shop. Species of mugwort (Artemisia inculta, A. monosperma) are widespread, as are oregano, mint, rosemary, anise, sage, lavender, and milfoil. Also characteristic is the endemic species of Sinaitic mullein (Verbascum sinaiticum) with its nearly human-high, branched stalks bearing many yellow blossoms growing out of a ground level rosette of leaves. Other plants spread throughout southern Sinai are the rare wick weed (Phlomis aureea) belonging to the Labiatae, another Labiata called Micromeria serbaliana, the Sinaitic St. John's wort (Hypericum sinaicum) and the Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster
orbicmlaris). The typical tree in the wadis is the very thorny acacia (Acacia Toddiama).

Even the shortest discussion of Sinai's plant world cannot be concluded without mentioning the 'burning thornbush' in St. Catherine's Monastery. Photographs from before the Israeli occupation show that a Syrian senna tree (Colutea istria) grew at this historic spot, whereas what grows there today is a species of blackberry (Rubus sanctus), probably descended from a cultivated form.
Observing animals is more difficult in the desert than elsewhere and requires more patience and persistence. Almost every animal is well camouflaged, very shy, and avoids the heat of the day. Above all, the big mammals are hunted in large numbers, especially since the Bedouin too have acquired rifles and cross-country vehicles. Some species are on the verge of extinction or have already been exterminated, especially since hunters from among the European and American experts resident in Egypt help to make the situation worse. Species that are already extinct are the leopard and the ostrich. Wolves, striped hyenas, and dorcas gazelles are almost extinct. Whether the announced regulations can still save the Nubian ibex is doubtful. Even the hyrax can rarely be seen since the Bedouin have recently begun hunting and eating it. According to a report by E. H. Palmer in 1872, in the past the Bedouin considered the hyrax to be an ancestor of human beings because its feet are shaped like human hands, and they avoided eating its flesh, for according to legend whoever did so would never be able to look their parents in the eye again. Since that time this taboo seems to have been forgotten.

The red fox (Vulpes vulpes) is a widespread mammal and often confused with the desert fox (Fennecus zerda). The red fox in desert areas is smaller and lighter and clearly has bigger ears than its European cousin, but the desert fox, or fennec, is even smaller and has proportionally even bigger ears.

As in European culture, the fox plays an important role in Sinai's folklore. A nice example of such folktales was recorded by C. B. Klunzinger in 1878: A fox wanted the chicks a man was taking to market in a basket. The fox ran on ahead, lay down on the way and pretended to be dead. When the man passed, he hardly noticed the fox. The fox repeated his trick twice more. Finally, the man thought to himself that three fox skins were worth selling in the market. He put his basket down and went back to collect the two previous dead foxes, but he could not find them. When he came back to his basket, not only had the fox disappeared but also the chicks with him.
Most of the mammals of Sinai belong to the rodent family, but they are rarely seen due to their hidden and mostly nocturnal lifestyle.

Lesser jerboas and gerbils belong to the most common species. In the ruins of the temple of Serabit al-Khadim golden spiny mice of the genus Acomys can be observed, the church mice of the ancient Egyptians, so to speak.

Sinai's bird community is very interesting. Inland the brown-necked raven (Corvus ruficollis) and the white-crowned black wheater (Oenanthe leucopyga) belong to the most important species. The courser (Cursorius cursor), the hoopoe lark (Alaemon alaudipes), and the trumpeter finch (Bucanetes githa-gineus) show special adjustment to the desert through their coloring. The Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), the tawny eagle (Aquila rapax), and the griffon vulture (Gypus fulvus) are seen rarely. More common are various species of falcons, among them the barbary falcon (Falco pelegrinoides), similar to the peregrine falcon.

The annual bird migration in spring and fall is a fascinating phenomenon. Eastern and southern Sinai belong to the most important bird migration routes. It is a very special experience to see flocks of storks circling in the thermals. For a few days in August in some years large parts of Ras Muhammad are almost covered with storks. Between them sit single pelicans, different species of herons, terns (among them the impressive royal tern), and sometimes even small groups of black storks. Normally the migration of an interesting variety of raptor species follows a few days later. Many small birds fly over Sinai as well - the migration of quails is even mentioned in the Bible. Wagtails can frequently be observed, and it is surprising to suddenly come across the bluethroat (Cyanosylvia svecica) in dreary desert wadis.
Desert wanderers are also interested in reptiles. By far the most common reptiles in Sinai are lizards of the Acanthodactylus genus of fringe-toed lizards and the desert-racer (Mesalina). The latter does live up to its name. To the smaller lizards belong several gecko species, among them the well-known Hasselquist's fan-footed gecko (Ptychodactylus hasselquisti) and the agama.

In the mating season the male agamas have conspicuous bright turquoise blue heads. The desert monitor and various species of dabb-lizards are large but very shy reptiles.
Approximately twenty different species of snakes have been recorded in Sinai, among them six poisonous species. Only one snake might be sighted regularly, the harmless and elegant sand snake (Psammophis schokari). When it comes to poisonous snakes, the most common are the horned viper (Cerastes cerastes) and the closely related lesser cerastes viper (Cerastes vipera). Although we have lived in Egypt for many years and hiked through the desert many times, we have never seen the beautiful but also very poison-ess diurnal carpet viper (Echis pyramidum) or the large, black Innes' cobra (Walterinesia aegyptica). Wariness of snakes and scorpions is in order during any stay in the desert, but there is no need for excessive fear.
Insects and spiders-both with large numbers of species and individuals-are ecologically important animals in Sinai. Typical forms are the Tenebrio-nidae, the large, voracious, nocturnal Solifugae, and scorpions. The number of very beautifully colored dragonflies is surprisingly high.

This rather incomplete overview of Sinai's flora and fauna and its ecological web can only hope to stimulate the reader's own discoveries.
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